Best Korean-Japanese Fried Chicken

Himitsu, 828 Upshur St. NW
The world is a better place because of Kevin Tien’s fried chicken ($18), one of the most primally satisfying dishes in recent memory. He dredges buttermilk-brined chicken thighs in a combination of flour, cornstarch, and potato starch, creating crags perfect for catching sauce and delivering a satisfying crunch. After the golden-toned cluckers come out of the deep fryer, they’re brushed with plenty of Korean gochujang, a funky-spicy-sweet-umami-rich sauce, and served with bread and butter pickles and Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise. Regulars know to get it with a side of rice that boasts a nice touch of tang, thanks to the addition of rice wine vinegar.