Photograph by Darrow Montgomery
Straw Stick & Brick’s interpretation of this salty New Orleans classic includes enough meat to make you sweat. But don’t mistake the tall, layered concoction for a Dagwood. The refined offering starts with the traditional cold cuts, cheese, and olive mix, but diverges somewhat from the original. Soppressata, capicola, and mortadella possess more flavor and less oil than anything you’d find at a supermarket deli, and Swiss cheese (as opposed to provolone) provides a pleasant nuttiness. Acid comes from perfectly pickled red onions and a swipe of mustard, while homemade olive salad gives the sandwich an extra dose of umami. A soft ciabatta roll, texturally similar to traditional muffaletta bread but without the sesame seeds, encloses everything in a tight bundle. Most importantly, this sandwich tastes just as good whether you eat it immediately in store or take it on a road trip and snack on it hours later.