Photograph by Darrow Montgomery
The excitement began at the pop-up shop at 14th Street NW’s Cork Market, then spread to H Street NE, Columbia Heights, and upper Connecticut Avenue. Bullfrog Bagels had arrived, and with them a boiled breakfast bread ring of which the District could finally be proud. The letdown came just as quickly: The bagels would cost $1.70 a pop. Fortunately, D.C. has perfectly serviceable bagels for less than half the price. They’re at a shop called Giant, with seven locations in the District, and they cost 69 cents each. Don’t mistake them for Safeway’s overly bready version. Frankly, you probably won’t mistake them for the superior Bullfrog bagel, either. But topped with the right smoked fish and schmear (or eggs and bacon, or deli meats), you’ll hardly notice the difference—except in your wallet.