Photograph by Darrow Montgomery
It seems every restaurant in town now has some kind of chef’s table, tasting menu, or family-style feast. Many of these meals will set you back big bucks with dishes that satisfy a chef’s ego and not necessarily your appetite. But Little Serow
’s $45 seven-course northern Thai menu makes you anticipate course after course, and it’s one of the best values in the city. Sure, getting a spot in the subterranean dining room is a pain in the ass, but chef Johnny Monis’ crunchy tofu salad and chicken liver larb, accompanied by sticky rice and gorgeous baskets of greens, make waiting in line worth it. By the time the final dish—tangy sweet Mekhong whiskey pork ribs showered in dill and shallots—hits the table, you’ll be completely full. And you’ll finish them all off anyway.