Adam Bernbach played all coy when he left Bar Pilar last year, demurely suggesting that he may be done with bartending in the conventional sense. Two months later, he agreed to get back behind the well at the wine-centric Proof, and we’re all better off for it. His inventive, esoteric drinks now make up D.C.’s most balanced, food-friendly cocktail list. The whimsy that Bernbach brought to his Tuesday night cocktail sessions at Pilar is still here; so are some old favorites, like the Bluntside, his Plymouth gin-and-brandied cherries cocktail that won a Best of D.C. award two years ago. But Bernbach is like a shark; he’d die if he weren’t constantly moving forward. So at Proof, he has added to his repertoire, with new potions like the Click Click Clack, a blend of maple syrup, lemon juice, port, whiskey bitters, and Johnny Walker Black. His libations are good enough that you may never crack open the wine list.